Shopping in Kyrgyzstan

Believe it or not, there are absolutely no Wal-Marts in the entire Kyrgyz Republic. Five million people and not a single Target. A country the size of Nebraska and they can’t even fit a single Bed, Bath, and Beyond. Some of you may be completely astounded that I have managed to last as long as I have without these modern, one-stop shopping havens. How do I procure my necessary commodities? I have my ways.

The most obvious place I go for food and other things is the store. I would guess that Kochkor has roughly 50 small stores. Most of these are identical in nature: they carry the same basic stock and usually the same price. Almost every store has basic commodities: bread, cookies, juice, and vodka. If I need any one of those things, almost every store in town will be able to satisfy my desire. We have two larger stores that are a little bit diversified in the food department. The store Kumush (Silver, in Kyrgyz) has the best cheese and even has cereal. The Bereke (no idea) has peanuts, the ramen noodles I like, and even cakes! These last two stores are where I do most of my shopping.

Fruit and vegetable stands are always operating in the streets, in addition to small kiosks that have everything from photo developing and Sega Genesis to horse tranquilizers and cigarettes. These small booths are typically nothing more than a small tarp laid out with boxes of produce stacked on top of them, though some have full tables. I have yet to see this side of the retail market in full swing, since I have been here primarily through the winter months. I have been assured that these little booths multiply by a great deal in the summer. I can’t wait.

For non-edible items, we have one large store that has several shops inside of it. The place reminds me of the hardware/electronics store in a small town in the Midwest. It has everything from school supplies to TVs and cookware. If I ever get the need to just buy something, I head over to this little store and just wander around until I find something worth buying. As a last resort in Kochkor, we have a weekly bazaar that has just about anything you could want: clothes, animals, appliances, even cars. The bazaar is held on Saturdays and is an experience in and of itself. Rarely have I needed something that I couldn’t find at the bazaar.

If what I want can’t be found in Kochkor, I make the trip to the big city to get it. Bishkek, the nation’s capitol, is roughly a three hour drive from Kochkor and only costs about $8 to get there. Bishkek has several large stores that have anything a person could want. Zum has any and all electronics. Beta Stores is an exquisite, European grocery store that services the expatriate crowd. I could buy Pop-Tarts and microwave popcorn there, but they are a bit on the expensive side. Bishkek also has two “mini-malls” that are comprised mostly of small, overpriced clothing stores. I would never buy anything inside the malls, but they are like a small, therapeutic journey to remind me that I am near civilization, if only for a visit. Bishkek also boasts the Dordoi Bazaar, the largest outdoor market in Central Asia. I have yet to see it, but I’ve been told it is amazing.

If, by some chance, what I need cannot be found in Bishkek, then I just don’t need it. I have come to a great appreciation for living without since I have been here. I have learned to satisfy any needs either on my own or by ignoring them. I do not want the audience to think I suffer, just that I view things in a very different perspective than I used to. There are lots of material things that would make my day to day life just a little easier, but I would rather save up a little and travel or go to a restaurant. I guess I’m learning a little financial discipline. Not bad, I guess.