Sunday, May 4, 2008

Issky Kul

Lake Issyk Köl (“hot lake” in Kyrgyz) is considered to be the “pearl” of the Kyrgyz landscape. A salt water lake located in the country’s northeastern section, it is constantly a topic of discussion among Kyrgyz people. The “hot” part of the name comes from the fact that the lake never freezes, due to the saltiness of the water and geothermal springs located within the lakebed. In Kyrgyz, it is often referred to as just “Köl” since it is the only lake that matters (to some). One of the first questions that someone will ask me is whether I have been there yet or not. It is assumed that I will go or that I have been and Kyrgyz people often have a hard time believing I have been in country ten months and have yet to see the mighty Köl.
Legend has it the salty, warm lake was created out of love. In ancient times, the king of a particular tribe held a traditional matching ceremony for his daughter. The ceremony’s main event was a horse game in which suitors had to kiss the daughter in order to win her hand. The daughter could make the task difficult for men she did not like, easier for those who she did. A young shepherd entered the contest and the daughter put up little resistance to his pursuit. However, when the kind found out that the daughter was to marry a common shepherd (and not the prince from another tribe as he had hoped), he was furious and arranged a marriage with royalty of another tribe.
The day of the wedding came soon afterwards. The girl was so distraught over the loss of her love that she started crying. The crying didn’t stop and eventually salty, warm water began pouring out of her eyes at an incredible rate and eventually the flood washed away the entire wedding party, including the bride and left only a lake in its place. The shepherd, meanwhile, was watching the ceremony from afar and saw his love transform herself into a lake. In order to ensure that he could always be near and watch over her, he turned himself into the mountains that surround the lake.
The area on the lake’s north shore is the most developed in the country (not including Bishkek). Most of the property is foreign owned and developed and include world class health facilities that, if you can afford it, are home to breath taking views and western amenities. Most of the Kyrgyz and Kazakh elite have homes in this area that they use for summer vacations, including President Bakiev who also has a small yacht in the lake. Prices are not exactly American, but they are definitely higher than in just about any other region in the country.
This last weekend I visited the village of Cholpon Ata (star’s father) to see this lake for myself (and see my friend Brian who is stationed there). I do admit that I was impressed. It is a beautiful area and, while it is certainly far from western standards, it is certainly much more advanced from an infrastructure perspective. The beaches are not the white sands of Hawaii, but are comfortable. The water is an amazingly crystal blue that takes a little while to believe in. It isn’t tourist season yet, so I was able to enjoy the area without the hustle and bustle I am assured places a stranglehold on the area in July and August…And shit was really, really expensive.
Note: The picture above is not from Issyk Kul, but from right here in Kochkor. I just figured this blog needed a picture. Those are my site mates Erin and Vanessa.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

But are there any fish in the water!

If you can't drink it, the only other thing it is good for is fishing.

Dad